We understand that when the fell line at the selvedges starts smiling, our selvedge warp threads are too loose. But when this happens mid-project, is it better to weight them at the back or tuck stuff into the offending areas on the cloth beam?
A reader has questions about caring for their handwoven tufted chenille cloth.
When Madelyn writes about weaving, she does so in a way that makes it all seem so simple. While I’ve not had the privilege of attending one of her classes at the Weavers’ School, I have learned a great deal from her project and articles.
Do you have information on the best ways to hang weavings on the wall?
In this first of a three part series, Madelyn describes the underlying characteristics of block doubleweave and finnweave after explaining how doubleweave differs from doublewidth weaving.
Many books and magazines use the term "Use Tabby" to keep the drafts manageable. What does that mean?
I have a pattern that calls for 8 picks of light and then 8 picks of dark. How do I keep the selvedge edge from having a long loop of one of the colors?
You don’t have to weave a separate sample. Just make the warp long enough so you can weave a bit, take that off, wash, and then change the sett on the warp you are using as needed by spreading the threads farther apart or closer together in the reed.